Our Promise To You

Our Environmental Promise: We use Forest Stewardship Council certified woods or woods salvaged from downed trees. All our boards are glassed with epoxy resin which is cleaner for our environment and emits 50-75% less Volatile Organic Compounds than polyester resin. In our shop we have moderate ventilation and no need for a mask when glassing. Epoxy is lighter and stronger than polyester. Our wood boards are nearly indestructible and should last a lifetime. Each board is quality crafted for strength, durability and concern for our environment.

Your Satisfaction Promise: Ride our boards for 30 days. If you don't like it, return it.

CONTACT: Dan Johnston (01-910-575-6682) BlindDogSurfboards@yahoo.com Tom Allen (01-404-229-4223) Blinddogsurfboards@hotmail.com

All images are copyright protected and my not be used without permission from Blind Dog Surfboards.


Sep 16, 2012

SOLD 9'0" Hybrid Competition Long Board $970


 

I just finished an 8'4" with shallow rear rocker and 3.5" front rocker. Bottom has slight V, about 1-2 degrees on both sides, and has Pro-Box system for side bites. It's fast and good on our normally choppy waves. Turns sweetly and rather easy to take late takeoffs.

Problem is that I can not use it in long board competition, longboards are defined as 9' +, so am scaling that spar into a 9'0". I added another number 4 rib with gave me the 6" I needed. It also has what we call 'Evo" rib pattern, more like an Aleia style foil, only something you can do in wood. Because of the foil being like an Aleia, it turns well with little effort and that combined with 1 3/4" tail rocker give it drive right from drop in.

Board specs: 9'0"  23" wide, 3 3/8 thick, 17" at nose, 15" at tail, 8.5" tail. Rocker 3 1/2" front, 1 3/4" rear.
Slight V about last 1/3
About 50/50 first 1/3
80/20 mid 1/3
Hard last 1/3
Weight: 18.5 pounds
4 oz glass top/bottom with Green Room epoxy.
Nose and tail blocks cedar and balsa
 Board is all cedar



 
Above shows ribs going to spar. Kicker here is to keep the ribs at 90 degrees to spar while glue dries. Picture on right is drawing an outline around board to trim excess off. If I don't do that, clamps will not fit. 
 
Laying in first rail (3/8" square) to get outline of future foil structure. Because there is a slight V in bottom I have to place angled wood strips, next will be 1/2" x 1/4" then a 3/4" x 1/4" then decking strips. Right picture shows first deck strip. Of course it will be matched to the other side, found this one has beautiful grain patterns.

 
Second center deck strip being glued in (I need more clamps :)  Right side, "All clamps on Deck...even the runts".

Below is how I mark out where the fin box backing in installed. I use balsa for blocking. On right is after removing set up jig for V bottom and gluing braces. Finally starting to look like a board.

                                                                                


Off with nose and tail.
Blocking for FCS side bite plugs



Last deck strip glued in place.
Tail and nose block, cedar and balsa.



Nose block glued in place.
Perfectly matched
Love when it matched perfectly.
Laminating coat.
 



2 comments:

  1. Saw your site thanx to Karen of Trans-America Journeys. Folks here have tackled similar projects (South Bay, Los Angeles area). Quite an undertaking with the result being a functional piece of art. Beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks.
    Only briefly did I get to work with Karen, yet really enjoyed her style and personality. Yes, they are functional art. We make very little money doing this, it is more about doing something that will last forever and yet it works. Thanks for your kind words. I grew up in Torrance, surfed all over CA, started around '63 so the changes since then have been amazing. Again, thanks.
    kindest regards,
    dan

    ReplyDelete